Camera settings

The issue at this point is not getting into Auto. I believe I am, since there is no lock icon at left (and the AE is blue). The issue is that, once in Auto, clicking the right wheel shows the three camera settings at left (ISO/Shutter/AE) but only toggles between the first two. I have not figured out how to alter the AE in Auto.

If you can see the ISO & shutter speed on the left hand side you are in manual mode. To get out of manual mode you press the icon with the 3 lines on, these values will now disappear and you will not have the lock icon on the left.
Once in auto mode the ISO, shutter speed & EV are shown at the top of the screen, now the only value you can change using the dial is the EV.
I think you are getting your EV's & AE's confused.
Meta4 is referring to AE (auto exposure) which also has an icon at the end of the same line which is shown as an open padlock, if you touch this icon it will change to a closed padlock which means the exposure is locked.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Toddzilla
What is this "film" that you speak of?

Sounds like you are just making this stuff up.

"Back in the film days" - not sure if you're joking, trolling or perfectly serious!
Not too too many years ago, before digital became so predominant, you could purchase film with a specific ASA value - the higher the number, the "faster" the film, i.e., with "fast" film you could shoot in much lower light situations. If I remember correctly, the ASA for typical film to be used for making slides (are you older enough to remember slides?) was 64. It was terrific for good, bright sun, but not much else. (You could fill-in with flash, but night-time shots with 64 ASA was a lot more demanding on the camera.)

In contrast (no pun intended) you could get 1,600 ASA film (for many years you could get speeds like that only in B/W film) and shoot in extremely low-light conditions. When digital came on the scene, things changed rapidly. The ASA became ISO and you can simulate the appropriate settings in digital mode by altering/adjusting the ISO setting. I think one of my Canon DSLR cameras has the capability of ISO 6,400 - you can shoot in darn-near total darkness, particularly if your camera is on a tripod and you can shoot timed exposures.

Film photography time machine now closed!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Toddzilla
"Back in the film days" - not sure if you're joking, trolling or perfectly serious!
Not too too many years ago, before digital became so predominant, you could purchase film with a specific ASA value - the higher the number, the "faster" the film, i.e., with "fast" film you could shoot in much lower light situations. If I remember correctly, the ASA for typical film to be used for making slides (are you older enough to remember slides?) was 64. It was terrific for good, bright sun, but not much else. (You could fill-in with flash, but night-time shots with 64 ASA was a lot more demanding on the camera.)

In contrast (no pun intended) you could get 1,600 ASA film (for many years you could get speeds like that only in B/W film) and shoot in extremely low-light conditions. When digital came on the scene, things changed rapidly. The ASA became ISO and you can simulate the appropriate settings in digital mode by altering/adjusting the ISO setting. I think one of my Canon DSLR cameras has the capability of ISO 6,400 - you can shoot in darn-near total darkness, particularly if your camera is on a tripod and you can shoot timed exposures.

Film photography time machine now closed!
You are right ISO 64 for slides. I still shoot with a film camera now and then. In my opinion film quality is better than digital, But Digital is much quicker to see the results. Here is a picture taken with my Bronica SQ-A medium format film
10.jpg
camera.
 
I'll try here to distill all the "controls" and "indicators" for the camera:

A] Right-hand side, bottom icon - three horizontal lines with one dot each:
Grey - AE mode (Auto Exposure)
Blue - Manual mode

B] When in AE mode:

1) The upper-right bar displays the settings the camera has set itself for, for the selected area of the screen. Which area is selected depends. You can tap a point on the screen (not too close to the edge) and a yellow box will pop up. The AE setting will be chosen for what the camera sees in that box. Tap a different area and you get new settings (if the camera thinks it needs to be changed). Tap the small 'x' at the upper right corner of the yellow box and you will see yellow targeting brackets appear for a second at the center of the screen. The camera has re-set itself to choose the AE settings for that center section of the screen.

2) Rotating the right side wheel will adjust the EV setting (you will notice it is blue). As you adjust the EV, the camera adjusts (automatically) the ISO and shutter speed to what it thinks is the best combination to achieve that EV value.

3) Pressing the wheel (it is also a button) seems to do nothing, other than beep. If anyone knows if it does anything else while in AE mode, please chime in (pun intended).

4) While still in AE mode, if you tap the (now grey) AE-lock icon at the right of the camera settings bar, it will lock the AE setting to what the camera had selected for the targeted area of the screen. Now, if you move the camera (whether through gimbal controls or the drone, or something else with the subject changes) the settings do not change. If you rotate the dial, the AE becomes unlocked again.

C] When in Manual mode:

1) Pop-out window on left shows ISO, Shutter speed, and EV.

2) Pressing the wheel as a button toggles control of ISO and Shutter. If the ISO number is blue, then ISO is selected. If ISO is white, the Shutter is selected. (Would have been mildly clever of DJI if they had made the Shutter number in the left window blue when shutter is selected.) The upper right camera bar shows the same values, with the selected value being blue. EV cannot be selected - it's display is just for reference, and may change as ISO and Shutter are adjusted.

3) To keep the selected Manual settings, you can swipe the pop-out window left. It will show a lock at the edge of the screen to show that the settings are locked. Rotating the wheel will still adjust the selected setting. Pressing the wheel will still toggle the selected setting.

D] Upper right camera bar also displays (depending on whether Still or Video mode) the estimated number of stills that can be saved to the SD card (depending on its free space) and the file format selected. For Video it is the estimated length of video possible, and resolution.

E] If you "hold" your finger on the screen you will get a blue circle around your finger. As you drag the circle it will move the camera (and therefore the AE selected area if you are in AE mode.) While dragging a white dot will remain on the screen so that you will know the physical location on the screen where you started dragging from. It acts like a joystick toggle - the farther from the white dot you are, the faster the camera moves.

F] While in Still mode, you will notice a four-sectioned circle around that button. If you press and hold the on-screen shutter button, the four sections will sequentially turn blue - that is the count-down to get to more Still-shot options. A half-wheel selection-thingy (I don't know whachyacallit) appears with five option. Tapping any of them selects the option for what happens when you press the shutter button (either on the screen or the controller itself).

1) Single shot. self-explanatory (I hope).

2) HDR shot. I don't know crap about digital photography, and have forgotten nearly everything I used to know about old-school photo. Recommendations for a good, concise, webpage on this would be greatly appreciated. (edit: OK, I have since found out what HDR is. I have no idea what method this camera/app uses.)

3) Burst Mode. Brings up another section bar for you to choose how many shots. 3, 5 or 7. Note that it can take a few seconds for it to save all the shots to the card before you can hit the shutter again.

4) AEB - (Auto Exposure Bracketing - ?) Brings up another menu for selecting 3 or 5 shots. I *think* this does a burst with each shot being at a different exposure setting, so that you can stitch sections of different shots together to get a *fixed* single shot (using picture-editing software). See F2 above.

5) Timed shot. This is time-lapse. Brings up another selection bar for you to choose the shot interval: 1 shot taken every 5, 7, 10, 20 or 30 seconds. Depending on your chosen Still format (JPEG, RAW or both, Resolution, and other things may make a difference too - I don't know) some of the faster intervals may be greyed-out and not selectable. It will keep taking shots until you press the shutter button again.

6) After you have selected the Shutter mode you want, press the center of the semi-circle and it will set the shutter. The shutter button will indicate the mode selected.


If I've forgotten or missed anything, please feel free to fill in the blanks. Or correct me where I'm wrong. Please remember F2 and F4 (above.)

Sonoran Monsoon.jpg
 
Last edited:
jwthorpe's post is one of the most comprehensive explanations of the camera's functions I have read on this forum, and I have over 40 years of experience in photography, 10 of which were spent explaining digital photography when it was in its infancy. Kudos.

DJI, for whatever reason, spent too little time on their manual and completely missed the point. Not only is it important to respect and understand the aerial platform the Phantoms provide, the functions of the camera should have been explained better than they were.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jhoke
I'll try here to distill all the "controls" and "indicators" for the camera:



2) HDR shot. I don't know crap about digital photography, and have forgotten nearly everything I used to know about old-school photo. Recommendations for a good, concise, webpage on this would be greatly appreciated.

4) AEB - (Auto Exposure Bracketing - ?) Brings up another menu for selecting 3 or 5 shots. I *think* this does a burst with each shot being at a different exposure setting, so that you can stitch sections of different shots together to get a *fixed* single shot (using picture-editing software). See F2 above.

View attachment 26915

Nice post!

HDR stand for high dynamic range. Extending the dynamic range of your photograph can be handled in camera (HDR Mode) or you can gain much better control by doing exposure bracketing. (AEB).

HDR mode will not require software. The camera will automatically fix the photo. I don't use this for the same reason I don't use JPEG or the scene modes, I want more control. You also don't get all the extra information to use in Photoshop/Lightroom/editor of your choice like you do with AEB.

For AEB, you generally expose
-2, 0, +2 EV if you bracket with 3 shots.
For 5 shots I've used
-2, -1, 0, +1, +2
-3, -1, 0, +1, +3
-4, -2, 0, +2, +4

depending on the scene. The goal is to expose each part of the picture perfectly so you can pull that out in the final photo. After you have your bracketed photos, you merge them in the editor or plug in. I like Photoshop or Nik for HDR. I think photomatix looks too 'HDR' and is harder to tone down, but it is also very good. Once your photo is merged, the software will have much more data to work with on each pixel. Watch your contrast, you will probably need to pump it up if you don't want a flat photo.

A third way to get an HDR photo is to expose one photo for the sky (the ground will be dark) and a second for the ground (the sky will be blown out -- all white). Then in photshop, you align and blend the two photos, to give you a perfectly exposed sky and ground. This will give you the most realistic output. The other HDR photos have a 'look' that you either like or don't.


Trey Ratcliff does amazing HDR
http://stuckincustoms.smugmug.com/
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/

How to replace your sky
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-hdr-photography/

Nice explanation of exposure bracketing
http://thehdrimage.com/hdr-how-many-exposures-are-enough/
 
I'll try here to distill all the "controls" and "indicators" for the camera:

A] Right-hand side, bottom icon - three horizontal lines with one dot each:
Grey - AE mode (Auto Exposure)
Blue - Manual mode

B] When in AE mode:

1) The upper-right bar displays the settings the camera has set itself for, for the selected area of the screen. Which area is selected depends. You can tap a point on the screen (not too close to the edge) and a yellow box will pop up. The AE setting will be chosen for what the camera sees in that box. Tap a different area and you get new settings (if the camera thinks it needs to be changed). Tap the small 'x' at the upper right corner of the yellow box and you will see yellow targeting brackets appear for a second at the center of the screen. The camera has re-set itself to choose the AE settings for that center section of the screen.

2) Rotating the right side wheel will adjust the EV setting (you will notice it is blue). As you adjust the EV, the camera adjusts (automatically) the ISO and shutter speed to what it thinks is the best combination to achieve that EV value.

3) Pressing the wheel (it is also a button) seems to do nothing, other than beep. If anyone knows if it does anything else while in AE mode, please chime in (pun intended).

4) While still in AE mode, if you tap the (now grey) AE-lock icon at the right of the camera settings bar, it will lock the AE setting to what the camera had selected for the targeted area of the screen. Now, if you move the camera (whether through gimbal controls or the drone, or something else with the subject changes) the settings do not change. If you rotate the dial, the AE becomes unlocked again.

C] When in Manual mode:

1) Pop-out window on left shows ISO, Shutter speed, and EV.

2) Pressing the wheel as a button toggles control of ISO and Shutter. If the ISO number is blue, then ISO is selected. If ISO is white, the Shutter is selected. (Would have been mildly clever of DJI if they had made the Shutter number in the left window blue when shutter is selected.) The upper right camera bar shows the same values, with the selected value being blue. EV cannot be selected - it's display is just for reference, and may change as ISO and Shutter are adjusted.

3) To keep the selected Manual settings, you can swipe the pop-out window left. It will show a lock at the edge of the screen to show that the settings are locked. Rotating the wheel will still adjust the selected setting. Pressing the wheel will still toggle the selected setting.

D] Upper right camera bar also displays (depending on whether Still or Video mode) the estimated number of stills that can be saved to the SD card (depending on its free space) and the file format selected. For Video it is the estimated length of video possible, and resolution.

E] If you "hold" your finger on the screen you will get a blue circle around your finger. As you drag the circle it will move the camera (and therefore the AE selected area if you are in AE mode.) While dragging a white dot will remain on the screen so that you will know the physical location on the screen where you started dragging from. It acts like a joystick toggle - the farther from the white dot you are, the faster the camera moves.

F] While in Still mode, you will notice a four-sectioned circle around that button. If you press and hold the on-screen shutter button, the four sections will sequentially turn blue - that is the count-down to get to more Still-shot options. A half-wheel selection-thingy (I don't know whachyacallit) appears with five option. Tapping any of them selects the option for what happens when you press the shutter button (either on the screen or the controller itself).

1) Single shot. self-explanatory (I hope).

2) HDR shot. I don't know crap about digital photography, and have forgotten nearly everything I used to know about old-school photo. Recommendations for a good, concise, webpage on this would be greatly appreciated.

3) Burst Mode. Brings up another section bar for you to choose how many shots. 3, 5 or 7. Note that it can take a few seconds for it to save all the shots to the card before you can hit the shutter again.

4) AEB - (Auto Exposure Bracketing - ?) Brings up another menu for selecting 3 or 5 shots. I *think* this does a burst with each shot being at a different exposure setting, so that you can stitch sections of different shots together to get a *fixed* single shot (using picture-editing software). See F2 above.

5) Timed shot. This is time-lapse. Brings up another selection bar for you to choose the shot interval: 1 shot taken every 5, 7, 10, 20 or 30 seconds. Depending on your chosen Still format (JPEG, RAW or both, Resolution, and other things may make a difference too - I don't know) some of the faster intervals may be greyed-out and not selectable. It will keep taking shots until you press the shutter button again.

6) After you have selected the Shutter mode you want, press the center of the semi-circle and it will set the shutter. The shutter button will indicate the mode selected.


If I've forgotten or missed anything, please feel free to fill in the blanks. Or correct me where I'm wrong. Please remember F2 and F4 (above.)

View attachment 26915
Thank you for taking the time to explore the camera and put it all in writing, I just learned more in five minutes regarding the camera reading your post than I have in a month, field testing the camera functions and trying to get the best settings. I am going to sit down with the controller and Phantom and go to school with your "text book"

Cheers!:):):)
 
Thank-you all for the comments.

SteelGator - how do you select the EV values for the AEB?
 
I'll try here to distill all the "controls" and "indicators" for the camera:

A] Right-hand side, bottom icon - three horizontal lines with one dot each:
Grey - AE mode (Auto Exposure)
Blue - Manual mode

B] When in AE mode:

1) The upper-right bar displays the settings the camera has set itself for, for the selected area of the screen. Which area is selected depends. You can tap a point on the screen (not too close to the edge) and a yellow box will pop up. The AE setting will be chosen for what the camera sees in that box. Tap a different area and you get new settings (if the camera thinks it needs to be changed). Tap the small 'x' at the upper right corner of the yellow box and you will see yellow targeting brackets appear for a second at the center of the screen. The camera has re-set itself to choose the AE settings for that center section of the screen.

2) Rotating the right side wheel will adjust the EV setting (you will notice it is blue). As you adjust the EV, the camera adjusts (automatically) the ISO and shutter speed to what it thinks is the best combination to achieve that EV value.

3) Pressing the wheel (it is also a button) seems to do nothing, other than beep. If anyone knows if it does anything else while in AE mode, please chime in (pun intended).

4) While still in AE mode, if you tap the (now grey) AE-lock icon at the right of the camera settings bar, it will lock the AE setting to what the camera had selected for the targeted area of the screen. Now, if you move the camera (whether through gimbal controls or the drone, or something else with the subject changes) the settings do not change. If you rotate the dial, the AE becomes unlocked again.

C] When in Manual mode:

1) Pop-out window on left shows ISO, Shutter speed, and EV.

2) Pressing the wheel as a button toggles control of ISO and Shutter. If the ISO number is blue, then ISO is selected. If ISO is white, the Shutter is selected. (Would have been mildly clever of DJI if they had made the Shutter number in the left window blue when shutter is selected.) The upper right camera bar shows the same values, with the selected value being blue. EV cannot be selected - it's display is just for reference, and may change as ISO and Shutter are adjusted.

3) To keep the selected Manual settings, you can swipe the pop-out window left. It will show a lock at the edge of the screen to show that the settings are locked. Rotating the wheel will still adjust the selected setting. Pressing the wheel will still toggle the selected setting.

D] Upper right camera bar also displays (depending on whether Still or Video mode) the estimated number of stills that can be saved to the SD card (depending on its free space) and the file format selected. For Video it is the estimated length of video possible, and resolution.

E] If you "hold" your finger on the screen you will get a blue circle around your finger. As you drag the circle it will move the camera (and therefore the AE selected area if you are in AE mode.) While dragging a white dot will remain on the screen so that you will know the physical location on the screen where you started dragging from. It acts like a joystick toggle - the farther from the white dot you are, the faster the camera moves.

F] While in Still mode, you will notice a four-sectioned circle around that button. If you press and hold the on-screen shutter button, the four sections will sequentially turn blue - that is the count-down to get to more Still-shot options. A half-wheel selection-thingy (I don't know whachyacallit) appears with five option. Tapping any of them selects the option for what happens when you press the shutter button (either on the screen or the controller itself).

1) Single shot. self-explanatory (I hope).

2) HDR shot. I don't know crap about digital photography, and have forgotten nearly everything I used to know about old-school photo. Recommendations for a good, concise, webpage on this would be greatly appreciated. (edit: OK, I have since found out what HDR is. I have no idea what method this camera/app uses.)

3) Burst Mode. Brings up another section bar for you to choose how many shots. 3, 5 or 7. Note that it can take a few seconds for it to save all the shots to the card before you can hit the shutter again.

4) AEB - (Auto Exposure Bracketing - ?) Brings up another menu for selecting 3 or 5 shots. I *think* this does a burst with each shot being at a different exposure setting, so that you can stitch sections of different shots together to get a *fixed* single shot (using picture-editing software). See F2 above.

5) Timed shot. This is time-lapse. Brings up another selection bar for you to choose the shot interval: 1 shot taken every 5, 7, 10, 20 or 30 seconds. Depending on your chosen Still format (JPEG, RAW or both, Resolution, and other things may make a difference too - I don't know) some of the faster intervals may be greyed-out and not selectable. It will keep taking shots until you press the shutter button again.

6) After you have selected the Shutter mode you want, press the center of the semi-circle and it will set the shutter. The shutter button will indicate the mode selected.


If I've forgotten or missed anything, please feel free to fill in the blanks. Or correct me where I'm wrong. Please remember F2 and F4 (above.)

View attachment 26915
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful!
 
Thank-you all for the comments.

SteelGator - how do you select the EV values for the AEB?

Great question @jwthorpe. I don't see a way to do it with the auto AEB. If anybody else sees a way to do this, I'love to know it.

I just tested the AEB to see what the steps are, and they were not great.
  • 3 shot: -0.7, 0, +0.7
  • 5 shot: -1.3, -0.7, 0, +0.7, +1.3
I am not sure if that is because I am indoors and that is what it auto picks, or if that is what the steps are fixed to be. I will have to test it in a setting that requires larger steps.


I bracket manually by rolling the EV dial, or by going into advanced mode on the camera and changing the shutter speed. Doubling (or halving) the shutter speed will change exposure by 1 stop. A nice way to get a full bracket set is to increase the shutter speed until you can see very little (fast shutter speed will let in very little light -- you will be able to get a lot of detail in your sky), then halve the shutter speed, take photo, halve the shutter speed, take photo, do this until all areas of your photo are blown out. Most likely you will be in the 7-9 photo bracket stage at that point.
 
I have been mucking about with the ISO and shutter speed settings for night photography. It is tricky to get right and I generally take a few shots on different settings to compare later. It is quite hard to tell at the time how it came out. Higher ISO means lower shutter speed required (which means it is generally sharper) but if it is really calm and you can do a long exposure on 100 ISO then you are going to have a very smooth looking shot with less 'noise'.

I managed this shot last night after lots of attempts to get it right.

View attachment 19963

Can you share what settings you used for that shot? I was experimenting with night shots tonight and kept ISO low to get rid of noise but it just didn't stay still enough for the long shutter times.
 
Great question @jwthorpe. I don't see a way to do it with the auto AEB. If anybody else sees a way to do this, I'love to know it.

I just tested the AEB to see what the steps are, and they were not great.
  • 3 shot: -0.7, 0, +0.7
  • 5 shot: -1.3, -0.7, 0, +0.7, +1.3
I am not sure if that is because I am indoors and that is what it auto picks, or if that is what the steps are fixed to be. I will have to test it in a setting that requires larger steps.


I bracket manually by rolling the EV dial, or by going into advanced mode on the camera and changing the shutter speed. Doubling (or halving) the shutter speed will change exposure by 1 stop. A nice way to get a full bracket set is to increase the shutter speed until you can see very little (fast shutter speed will let in very little light -- you will be able to get a lot of detail in your sky), then halve the shutter speed, take photo, halve the shutter speed, take photo, do this until all areas of your photo are blown out. Most likely you will be in the 7-9 photo bracket stage at that point.


Like you say the AEB isn't great, what I have done is take the 5 shot but only use -1.3, 0, +1.3 which worked OK. It would be great if DJI could allow us to set the AEB, I'm sure it would be easy to add into a future firmware upgrade.

jwthorpe great post and love the pic.
 
Like you say the AEB isn't great, what I have done is take the 5 shot but only use -1.3, 0, +1.3 which worked OK. It would be great if DJI could allow us to set the AEB, I'm sure it would be easy to add into a future firmware upgrade.

jwthorpe great post and love the pic.

Almost lost the bird on that one. A lot of puckering going on.
 
Also a thanks to jwthorpe! Been shooting almost 40 hrs myself and still couldn't figure out the advanced settings on the camera. Now I can play with it.

Steel gator- unfortunately we have limited auto bracketing on the P3 for now. Just the 3-5 shots at .7 stop ( for you non photographers that's 2/3-stop or 2 clicks on he EV Wheel)
Better than nothing and best option for fast brackets on a floating camera.
But for true HDR a full stop between frames would have been better. I can move 2/3 stop in processing (Raw) and make the 3 frames nearly identical.
 
Also a thanks to jwthorpe! Been shooting almost 40 hrs myself and still couldn't figure out the advanced settings on the camera. Now I can play with it.

Steel gator- unfortunately we have limited auto bracketing on the P3 for now. Just the 3-5 shots at .7 stop ( for you non photographers that's 2/3-stop or 2 clicks on he EV Wheel)
Better than nothing and best option for fast brackets on a floating camera.
But for true HDR a full stop between frames would have been better. I can move 2/3 stop in processing (Raw) and make the 3 frames nearly identical.

That is what I figured. I will continue to bracket manually, as what is available does not even make sense. They should have hardwired at least a 1 stop interval, preferably a 2 stop interval. Tells me whoever is running the camera stuff does not know HDR that well (or at all).

Since on this platform, I use HDR mostly to fix skies, I think I am going to end up get the SRP GND filter. That will solve the bulk of my issues, and work on video as well.
 
Just an observation: seems to be two types of Phantom owners. One group owns a copter with a camera on it, the other owns a camera which can fly.
Agreed. For me the Phantom is a fantastic Flying Camera. That is its purpose- to place my camera where I never could before- without hiring a $900/hr helicopter.
It's a 400' Tripod.
For the photographers in our little club, what's the point of putting a 12mp/4K camera on the thing if we can't control it and if the camera is sub-par.
It's getting there. The P3 is a massive improvement over the P2v and I expect that only to get better. Fantastic tool. I do hope DJI listens & hears what the pros say is needed
ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1439144593.988218.jpg
 
Agreed. For me the Phantom is a fantastic Flying Camera. That is its purpose- to place my camera where I never could before- without hiring a $900/hr helicopter.
It's a 400' Tripod.
For the photographers in our little club, what's the point of putting a 12mp/4K camera on the thing if we can't control it and if the camera is sub-par.
It's getting there. The P3 is a massive improvement over the P2v and I expect that only to get better. Fantastic tool. I do hope DJI listens & hears what the pros say is needed
View attachment 26995
DJI basically owns this forum, so I would imagine that they do. :):) I am sure every post is read everyday by someone working for or representing DJI. You can bet that all the constructive input on video and pictures goes straight to the photography engineers for review and evaluation.
 
I'll try here to distill all the "controls" and "indicators" for the camera:
View attachment 26915
JWT - that is SUCH a cool image. And I'd love to see what I could do with the RAW file. I did this with the JPG you posted. It has WAY more potential than you show here. Hope you don't mind.......
I envy you your location!!!!
Check it:
 

Attachments

  • Sonoran Monsoon_ret.jpg
    Sonoran Monsoon_ret.jpg
    3.3 MB · Views: 318
JWT - that is SUCH a cool image. And I'd love to see what I could do with the RAW file. I did this with the JPG you posted. It has WAY more potential than you show here. Hope you don't mind.......
I envy you your location!!!!
Check it:

That's some nice adjustment - I was just actually starting a little today to monkey around with it. When I took it a little over a week ago (a couple days after getting my P3P) I didn't know much of anything and had it set to JPEG only instead of with RAW also. Oops.
I had to go track the bird down after it landed on a critical battery level. Expected to find a pile of debris, but it missed hitting anything. Whew.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jhoke

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
143,066
Messages
1,467,358
Members
104,936
Latest member
hirehackers