Camera settings used dont just look answer

[skyhighdiver]

DO you use standard sharpness or hard
Average on the spot meter or center and I assume (the circle with no dot in is average ? )no explanation seen on manual
And do you know if you set white balance to sun or cloudy does the color stay consistent through the video
Now mine seems to flutter to different brightness settings as the camera moves

Thanks for the comments I’m just trying to make the best of this mediocre thing
I’m not a professional photographer but would like to make 16x20 or 8x 10 of pictures I take
Of overhead shots

also do the camera settings also effect the video settings

 

[FSJ Guy]

Standard sharpness. I sharpen in the raw processor.

Depending on your subject, average metering should be fine. But that's why I shoot DNG. You can always adjust it later. Easier than hovering while you play with settings on your phone, IMHO.

I havne't have issues with WB. IIRC, mine is set to auto, or whatever the factory default is.

You'll be hard pressed to get a decent 16x20 out of this, IMO. An 8x10 is probably OK, but anything else is pushing it. Remember, the sensor on this camera is very tiny. If you want 16x20 print quality, call Chris at www.BergenRC.com He has hex and octo-rotors capable of carrying a full size DSLR.

 

[jimre]

The Sharpness and WB settings control how the camera processes JPEG images. They have no effect on RAW (DNG) images. With RAW/DNG, both sharpening and color temp are left up to the photographer in post-processing.

If you're shooting JPEG, then I'd suggest setting sharpness to either Standard or Soft. The "Hard" setting is ridiculously overdone. Also for shooting JPEG, I'd suggest picking a specific WB setting (like Sunny or Cloudy) rather than Auto - so the color stays consistent from shot-to-shot. Especially important if you're going to stitch photos together into a panorama.

For exposure - I always use the widest exposure metering setting (Average), which takes most of the picture into account. It's least likely to change dramatically as the camera moves around. Center- or Spot-metering seem pretty useless on a flying camera like this. Unless your desired exposure subject happens to be in the precise center of the screen - AND you have the awesome pilot skills to keep the camera pointed precisely there - it's just going to result in random exposure variations, as the camera moves around.

I also set the ISO to 100, rather than Auto - again, to make things as consistent as possible between shots.

Finally, I often set the Exposure Compensation to -1.0 if it's bright outside, to prevent blown-out skies.

I also think that 16 x 20 prints are asking an awful lot from this small-sensor camera. You might find an image that works, but smaller sizes will work better.

 

[EV2]

Adding a note for printing, if you have a sharp focus, a 13x19 print can be made that is very acceptable. Although it does not match the quality of a 32 megapixel full frame capture, it presents very well at a normal viewing distance. It does require some interpolation increase to about 280 pixels.

 

[gfredrone]

The Sharpness and WB settings control how the camera processes JPEG images. They have no effect on RAW (DNG) images. With RAW/DNG, both sharpening and color temp are left up to the photographer in post-processing.

If you're shooting JPEG, then I'd suggest setting sharpness to either Standard or Soft. The "Hard" setting is ridiculously overdone. Also for shooting JPEG, I'd suggest picking a specific WB setting (like Sunny or Cloudy) rather than Auto - so the color stays consistent from shot-to-shot. Especially important if you're going to stitch photos together into a panorama.

For exposure - I always use the widest exposure metering setting (Average), which takes most of the picture into account. It's least likely to change dramatically as the camera moves around. Center- or Spot-metering seem pretty useless on a flying camera like this. Unless your desired exposure subject happens to be in the precise center of the screen - AND you have the awesome pilot skills to keep the camera pointed precisely there - it's just going to result in random exposure variations, as the camera moves around.

I also set the ISO to 100, rather than Auto - again, to make things as consistent as possible between shots.

Finally, I often set the Exposure Compensation to -1.0 if it's bright outside, to prevent blown-out skies.

I also think that 16 x 20 prints are asking an awful lot from this small-sensor camera. You might find an image that works, but smaller sizes will work better.

Great information! How about video settings, Wide (140°), Medium (120°) and Narrow (90°). I've only shot video at 1080 wide and am wondering if switching to 1080 medium or narrow would take some of the fisheye out of the equation. Thoughts or actual results?

 

[jimre]

Great information! How about video settings, Wide (140°), Medium (120°) and Narrow (90°). I've only shot video at 1080 wide and am wondering if switching to 1080 medium or narrow would take some of the fisheye out of the equation. Thoughts or actual results?

I've only used Wide setting for video so far, haven't played with the others. Makes sense that the narrower FOV would eliminate the worst of the fisheye on the outer edges of the image. To get 1920x1080 video from a 4384x2466 sensor, the camera does some kind of pixel-sampling - taking 1920 pixels either from the full sensor width (140° FOV) or from the middle portion (90° FOV). And the middle portion of the lens should be less curved.

This setting would give you better video quality than shooting Wide and then cropping down to the center 90° portion. Starting with 1920 pixels then cropping - you get a 90° image that's only ~1200 pixels wide. With the 90° FOV setting, you get a 90° image that's a full 1920 pixels wide.

 

[gfredrone]

Great information! How about video settings, Wide (140°), Medium (120°) and Narrow (90°). I've only shot video at 1080 wide and am wondering if switching to 1080 medium or narrow would take some of the fisheye out of the equation. Thoughts or actual results?

I've only used Wide setting for video so far, haven't played with the others. Makes sense that the narrower FOV would eliminate the worst of the fisheye on the outer edges of the image. To get 1920x1080 video from a 4384x2466 sensor, the camera does some kind of pixel-sampling - taking 1920 pixels either from the full sensor width (140° FOV) or from the middle portion (90° FOV). And the middle portion of the lens should be less curved.

This setting would give you better video quality than shooting Wide and then cropping down to the center 90° portion. Starting with 1920 pixels then cropping - you get a 90° image that's only ~1200 pixels wide. With the 90° FOV setting, you get a 90° image that's a full 1920 pixels wide.

I just flew a test video @ 1080 30p with FOV set to medium and it takes out a lot of the fisheye, especially when adjusting the camera up and down while videoing. Haven't tried narrow yet but like the results on medium. I'm thinking narrow might be too narrow just from looking at the FPV on the ground when I was setting everything up.

 

[FSJ Guy]

I just printed out a 13x19" print and I was very surprised!

Aside from the distortion resulting from the fisheye removal, it's actually not a bad quality print.

In fact, looking at the big picture (sorry) tells me I still need to do some re-focusing on my lens. My infinity focus is still a touch off.

 

[cuckooclick]

Hey i am a new guy to these, is the field of veiw the o, (o) and () settings?

 

[jimre]

Hey i am a new guy to these, is the field of veiw the o, (o) and () settings?

Nope. Those are Exposure Metering.

Suggest you take a look at the user manual, starting at Page 40:
http://download.dji-innovations.com/dow ... .12_en.pdf