SJP is correct, analog movie makers referred to the 180 degree rule......interesting read learning how it was done in the day, explains a lot. 180 degree rule means my shutter speed needs to be a factor of 2 x the frames per second setting. This all means at 25fps video recording you aim to set your shutter speed at 1/50 or at 50fps at 1/100 and so on......
The Phantoms use a fixed aperture and a fixed focus point. That means one can only adjust ISO and shutter speed to adjust exposure. On a bright sunny day you completely over expose at 1/50th or even at 1/100th of a second shutter speed. The only way to then reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor is to make use of ND filters. For example using a ND8 or a ND16 will give you the chance to get that shutter speed closer to 1/50th at an ISO of 100.
In terms of settings I prefer to use the D-Log setting for color. You need to keep in mind that the P3 basically records a "RAW" video format. To get the best from the recorded video you need to develop the video RAW file into a workable file. Programs like Final Cut Pro & Premier Pro do this in the background......I prefer to do this as I download my footage to my server.
What is video "RAW"? Recording at 25fps results in huge amounts of data saved to disk. To manage the data size video footage is compressed to a smaller size (progressive or interlaced compression) and this compressed footage is saved in a so-called container (file format) H.264 for example.
DJI has a great de-compressor that will recreate the original 25fps file into a un-compressed file. Download the DJI transcoder app from the DJI website, this app will do the de-compressing for you.
If you now take this decompressed file into a video editor like Premier Pro or Premier Elements you can really get the best results possible...... The D-Log color setting gives you a great neutral color to work from. From Premier Pro or Elements it is possible to export your final movie file to a youtube, facebook or whatever format you like......
In terms of best image settings I apply the following simple rule....... Always record your images in both JPEG and RAW format.
RAW format are the digital negative of the image......theoretically nothing has been set or done to a RAW image file. That means any settings you make to your JPEG file will NOT effect the RAW file.
Wow that is something....!!! This means now you can go and be creative. You free to adjust your JPEG file look the way you like it.......the key here is....the way YOU like the image....you the artist.
There are NO best image settings, only that what you as the artist like to present to your audience.
Finally the RAW file will enable you to go back to the digital negative and to develop a "best" setting image or a creative image as you want.......
The last question was about night photography. In short you have 2 major challenges with a Phantom 2 Vision or the P3's. The sensors are tiny and very noisy. Third you need a stable platform when using long exposures. The Phantom gimbal is great keeping the camera steady. My advice is to keep night work limited to the so-called blue-hour, that is when you will get the best results. Keep the ISO up to and below 400. Remove any ND filters!!!