Best video setting, without post??

[Holrits]

The shutter speed has a profound effect on the overall video experience. It is very much a matter of personal preference. It also depends very much on the speed of the scene change. I attached two frame grabs from two videos taken using the same waypoint mission, hence the frames represent about the same scene however 15 minute apart on the same day. The first image is from a video taken with an ND16 filter resulting in the ability to use 100 ASA and 1/60th shutter speed while recording UHD at 30 fps. The second image is a frame taken from the second mission with only a UV filter and a shutter speed that allowed me to use 100 ASA somewhere in the 1/800th range. In both cases, the P3P was moving at 8 MPH.

In both cases I used fixed WB (5000K), D-log and custom -2,-3,-2. Neither of the two had any unwanted artifacts like jello. I ended up using the one shot WITHOUT the ND16 filter. I did not like the smeared image effect caused by a slow shutter speed. Note the coloring looks almost like a water color painting when using the slow shutter speed. Needless to say, if that is what you are looking for, go for it. Note, the ND filter did affect the WB of the image. Also, in my experience, to minimize or eliminate rolling shutter and other P3P artifacts is mostly accomplished by setting all to manual and reducing the sharpness to -2. One more significant modification I made to the P3P is to replace the original gimbal rubber vibration absorbers with a better quality. The original tended to extent too far thus hitting the anti-drop limiter.
View attachment 48604 View attachment 48605

I must say i do like pic no 2 also more than no 1
Wonder if i need to use these filters now, if this is what they do to the picture.

This summer im going to shoot some videos and pictures in Alanya, where the sun is very bright.
Would it be an idea to use an ND filter just to reducere the sharpness of the Sun light?
And not necessarily to reduce the shutter speed to 120.

 

[Richard Gozinya]

You can get decent auto everything results if you hover the bird up there and tilt the camera to down just enough so the ground gets exposed the way you like it and then touch the screen in the area of the ground and then up top touch the AE icon to lock that exposure so it doesn't keep changing. That's the best way to use auto everything. I have found a profile set to none can give very natural color. You can go into custom settings and bump up saturation a little. Vivid is very saturated. ND filters starts to get away from auto settings and requires dialing in manual settings. You should at some point spend some time learning to use manual settings and custom settings. That's the best way to get good results. But when I used auto everything, at least locking exposure for a good combined ground and sky exposure did fine. Good luck,

This is excellent advice from someone who clearly knows what they are talking about. I haven't had my P3 long enough to get to this problem. Just learning how to get it up in the air. I use this exact method for all my "on the ground" video work. Thanks for pointing this method out.

 

[Holrits]

Just to be sure, the "ae" lock / exposure lock, is that like the shutter speed im locking? a bit confused

 

[2-yota]

Yesterday, I shot a number of test shots comparing various colour and style settings. I was pleasantly surprised at how well some of these auto settings came through with. I usually film in D-log with custom sharpness/contrast/saturation settings and then spend countless hours in post colour grading and adjusting this and that on the rgb curves ... where some of these auto settings have already brought you to step 8 of 10. Sure, post can get better results but auto settings can also yield great results too. This is art and there is no specific formula one needs to follow to produce ones work. If you're happy with the results, then it's good! Right now, I'm really not too happy with all the time I'm spending in post when I could be out flying and filming more.

As for the AE lock that shockwave199 mentioned, it should be that icon at the upper right of your screen under the battery %. You need to tell the camera to meter (measure) a specific area first (touch screen where you want it to meter on), then if it looks good to you, press that AE lock button and the "padlock" symbol should close. Now it's locked (the exposure). The camera will now auto adjust the other settings (iso/shutter speed) to maintain that locked exposure value.

Lastly, your ND filters do work best in manual but that doesn't mean don't use them in auto. If conditions calls for them, throw it on as it will still bring down the shutter speed. Once again, try it and see if you like the results.

Have fun!


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[shockwave199]

The problem with using ND filters while in auto mode is the picture over exposes pretty badly and even the lowest EV setting can't dial it out. Best to leave filters for use in conjunction with manual settings and manual settings is something to gravitate to along the way for best results.

 

[band318]

I must say i do like pic no 2 also more than no 1
Wonder if i need to use these filters now, if this is what they do to the picture.

This summer im going to shoot some videos and pictures in Alanya, where the sun is very bright.
Would it be an idea to use an ND filter just to reducere the sharpness of the Sun light?
And not necessarily to reduce the shutter speed to 120.

It depends on what is your goal - good video or good photo?

If it is good video (cinematic without jello effect), go for ND filters to get exact 2f exposure. Be prepared for some color shift with ND filters depending on filter strength (as shown in pics posted by Roamer105) - either tweak it in post or adjust/set your Whitebalance to overcome the color shift.. Hitting the right Whitebalance to overcome the color shift with different ND filters may take 2-3 trials as the desired color output itself varies based on personal preferences..

If primary goal is photo - then without ND filters, Auto setting should do a fine job.. For minor tweaks use the exposure wheel or AE lock feature.

 

[Holrits]

Thanks for answer, i see i really have to test it out soon !

 

[Dacon Productions]

One more significant modification I made to the P3P is to replace the original gimbal rubber vibration absorbers with a better quality. The original tended to extent too far thus hitting the anti-drop limiter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What else did you use?

 

[JamesG2571]

I saw in the earlier posts people going on about setting your WB to 5500kelvin but surely your image will come out blue with a lack of red because 5500k is a very blue. :/

Or am I missing something ?


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