Best Camera Settings

Ok had a go at this and had a few problems. I had a 8ND filter fitting and managed to get the shutter speed around double the frame rate speed with the EV at 0 with everything looking good. The problem I had is as soon as I turned the quad around 180 degrees the EV then showed 2-3 stops out. I had to readjust the shutter speed to sort it out. I felt like I was constantly having to change the shutter speed to keep the EV at around 0 and the picture looking good. Am I getting something wrong? Does anyone know if you can lock the ISO to 100 while leaving the shutter speed in auto?
Yes this is a constant battle as your environment lighting can change drastically. It's ok if your exposure meter fluctuates a little. What I often do is fly in all auto, point the camera around (at lighter or darker views) by yawing or tilting until the SS and ISO hit the sweet spot. Then I tap the AE lock. It's the "AE" button on the top right of the screen. It'll turn blue and the SS and ISO will not change util you tap it again. (For 24/25pfs a SS of 50 is ideal but you can go as high as 100 on your SS and be ok. You just don't want a SS of 500 or 1500.)
 
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You can't lock only ISO, but you do need to manage the changing light conditions when not in 'auto' mode. When in manual mode, I keep my finger on the dial and adjust as needed... more sun/light you need to compensate

The difference here is that with a 'normal' dSLR you aren't moving (typically) 180* so you need to rethink and shoot the way the device allows ... for example on my dSLR I can micromanage every setting, on the P3 i have only a few things that can be tweaked.. makes it both easier and frustrating sometimes ;)
 
You can't lock only ISO, but you do need to manage the changing light conditions when not in 'auto' mode. When in manual mode, I keep my finger on the dial and adjust as needed... more sun/light you need to compensate

The difference here is that with a 'normal' dSLR you aren't moving (typically) 180* so you need to rethink and shoot the way the device allows ... for example on my dSLR I can micromanage every setting, on the P3 i have only a few things that can be tweaked.. makes it both easier and frustrating sometimes ;)
Ditto this.
 
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Yes this is a constant battle as your environment lighting can change drastically. It's ok if your exposure meter fluctuates a little. What I often do is fly in all auto, point the camera around (at lighter or darker views) by yawing or tilting until the SS and ISO hit the sweet spot. Then I tap the AE lock. It's the "AE" button on the top right of the screen. It'll turn blue and the SS and ISO will not change util you tap it again. (For 24/25pfs a SS of 50 is ideal but you can go as high as 100 on your SS and be ok. You just don't want a SS of 500 or 1500.)

This sound like a better way to try and set up. Thanks for the info I will try it again next time.
 
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Correct. If you're only taking pictures the ND is not necessary. (Unless you're wanting to slow the shutter speed for long exposure shots of course,)
It's not exactly trial and error. The camera will guide you. Put on the uv filter, set manual camera mode, choose ISO 100 and the shutter speed at twice your frame rate (ie 60 if you're shooting at 30 fps). Now look at the EV reading to see how many stops you're overexposed. Choose the ND filter that will bring it closest to 0. So if it's reading EV +3.3, choose a 3 stop filter (ND 8) to bring your EV down to 0.3.

The idea is to get your EV (exposure value) to 0 with the ISO and shutter of your choice by adjusting how much light you let in with the variable filters. The number on an ND filter is the bottom half of a fraction. An ND2 filter lets in half (1/2) the normal light... One f stop down. ND4 = 1/4 of the light, 2 stops down and so on.
 
Hi, newbie here...stumbled across this site after googling camera settings for the P3. Have learned a lot from Monsieur Hagan's tutorials and was comparing footage to a colleage who uses full auto. Unconvinced by my 'flat' before and after he wondered how footage compared between full auto and then with ND filter, contrast/saturation/sharpness turned down, auto white balance off, log profile, iso 100, 30fps and 1/60 SS and then post processing. With sunsetting and a tractor going up and down the field behind, perfect opportunity. Very amateur but think this shows the difference even with tweaking done by a chimp

Again, thanks to Frederick and others on here for their research and shared knowledge, much appreciated

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regards
Ben
 
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Hi, newbie here...stumbled across this site after googling camera settings for the P3. Have learned a lot from Monsieur Hagan's tutorials and was comparing footage to a colleage who uses full auto. Unconvinced by my 'flat' before and after he wondered how footage compared between full auto and then with ND filter, contrast/saturation/sharpness turned down, auto white balance off, log profile, iso 100, 30fps and 1/60 SS and then post processing. With sunsetting and a tractor going up and down the field behind, perfect opportunity. Very amateur but think this shows the difference even with tweaking done by a chimp

Again, thanks to Frederick and others on here for their research and shared knowledge, much appreciated

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regards
Ben
Nice. I love to see others "tests". But then again I'm kind of a nerd that way. Thanks for posting.
 
When and if I post I will be looking for cruel honest critism. Hopefully that way we can get better. I don't have a critique on this video because I don't know.Looks OK to me but to FH's trained eye, I'm sure he would have some things to say

I'd love to see your tests. Anyone's tests. It's how I've learned what little I know. And by the way you guys are very kind but I'm still learning. I know some incredibly talented colorists and editors... I'm not there yet by a long shot. Mostly trying to not screw up or give advice that's flat out...wrong.

I was having an email convo with a new friend today about aerial shooting. I'll share the part of the email to him. I'm not preaching at all. This is the same advise I was given and I still believe in it....

"....I get asked, “What’s the best advise you can give me in producing great footage?” My reply is crude but so very, very true... “Don’t be afraid to suck.” Again pardon the tongue-and-cheek phasing but it’s true. You’re gonna suck. We all do. I still do. Just get out there, have fun, fly and learn. Do the work, the rest will come. Six months from now you’ll be looking through some of your first shots…. and you’ll smile. You’ll see how far you’ve come, because you have - and that’s a pretty awesome feeling...."

So everybody get out there and suck! Then post your video results so we can all learn!
 
This is probably the most fun have had filming a subject. Breath taking view. The rock that my wife is sitting on is where the lighthouse used to be. The land had eroded away and the lighthouse that had stood there since 1875 would eventually fall into the sea. For safety The Army Corps of Engineers was scheduled to demolish it. People came together, raised the money and moved the entire lighthouse a few hundred feet away from the cliffs edge. Saved it form erosion and the mighty corps of engineers' hammer. Cant remember if I posted it before. But it was shot with the same settings as in the vid at the beginning of this thread. Also used the SRP GND16-8. My favorite ND filter to date. (POI before the Phantom had POI. Only took me 12 takes! Ahhhhhhhh!)

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Well, in the vein of 'don't be afraid to suck', these clips are compiled from a single video file. No real idea how to use the video editing software just yet, but I wanted to see what it could look like with some richness added in. Recorded in log with "-2,-3,-2", and a custom white balance (can't quite remember where it was set). I believe I was using a PolarPro ND16.
I may have gotten carried away bringing back some colour - possibly over saturated. Definitely learning that slower is better when it comes to Yaw movements.
On the other hand, there's a couple good shots in there, too! (if I do say so myself)

At the end of the day, it's a dog jumping in a pool - it would be hard to make that look too terrible.

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Two words. I like it. Ok... three words...but nice job! I don't feel like the color is over saturated. Looks like a broadcast color grade for a TV spot. Bright, vibrant and inviting. The important thing is there were no blown out whites or crushed blacks. (I would like to see it in 1080 resolution) But honestly I was waiting to hear a voice over saying, "At Harrison Pool Works we'll design and install it. What you DO with your new pool....is up to you." Good choice of music. Sadly audio is often an afterthought. Didn't overpower or underwhelm what you were seeing. Fun and quirky. That's my two cents. Thanks for posting.
 
Thanks for your comments...
I'm not sure what happened with the upload? Besides the original post being MIA, the quality of the video is quite a bit degraded from the original that was uploaded. (I got a bit nervous while uploading when it said: "compressing video")
I guess I'll need to figure out how to post a video without going through their compression algorithm.
Still lots to learn.
 
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Thanks for your comments...
I'm not sure what happened with the upload? Besides the original post being MIA, the quality of the video is quite a bit degraded from the original that was uploaded. (I got a bit nervous while uploading when it said: "compressing video")
I guess I'll need to figure out how to post a video without going through their compression algorithm.
Still lots to learn.
Try uploading to YouTube then just pasting the link. That seems to work for me.
 
What are your suggested settings for taking photos with the p3p and what are your thoughts on the 3 or 5 bkt shooting. I have 2 sets of ND filters 4 8 16 & 32 but have not purchased a graduated filter yet.
Can't comment on this with any authority as I'm primarily a video shooter. Perhaps someone could chime in as I'm interested to know also.
 
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Quality is better than the one I originally posted, but still quite degraded when compared with the original.

For now - it's an improvement.

Baby steps ;)
 
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I'm in the process of testing your -2-3-2 suggestion. Looks dull but in post you can really play with it.
I personally am not a big fan of spending a lot of time in post. But I've found the 2-3-2, LOG and ND filters necessities to maximize your chances of capturing the best footage. Otherwise when you shoot at different times and locations during the same day, you'll end up spending too much time 'dialing in settings' or guessing wrong and limiting ability to correct in Post. A lot of my footage I've gotta get quick in and out [emoji6] so the only thing I usually change manually are WB, ND/CP filter type, AE lock and go!
The longer I'm in an area, the more people want to chit chat and cause me to lose focus. Lost a bird deep in a canyon this way due to these distractions when wind gusts picked up and prevented RTH (RIP: Golden Rod I)
 

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