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Beeping and no PC connection after Phantom Upgrade Kit

Discussion in 'Phantom 1 Help' started by w.win, Nov 19, 2013.

  1. w.win

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    Hey, haven't found my exact problem anywhere so really hoping someone here can help me as I'm pretty new with this.

    We had the Phantom flying great, no problems, as of a night or two ago, then we purchased the Phantom Upgrade kit so that we could go forward with our H3-2D gimbal install.

    We uninstalled the original board, and put in the new upgrade board, as well as the new LED board, and reconnected/resoldered everything back together.

    Since then, we powered on the controller as well as the Phantom itself, and all we get from the Phantom itself is a loud constant beeping sound, and no LED response on the bulb/back side of the craft.

    Attempts to connect to PC via USB on a Windows XP laptop so as to update everything result in nothing except the laptop not recognizing that the copter is attached, and the continued constant beeping of the copter body.

    This is all very strange as we've had no problem connecting the copter to PC in the past, and every time we've ever powered on our rather new unit it's worked perfectly.

    Any ideas? I have pictures of what our connectiosn look like inside the craft, and a video of what the inside of the unit is doing when we feed it power from battery if that helps, but wanted to see if there were any initial ideas.

    Thanks in advance for any advice, we're sort of new as I mentioned!
     
  2. OI Photography

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    If you're absolutely sure all the wires are connected again properly, it sounds like the LED/USB module is bad. I'm not sure what "new" LED board you put in, did it come with the new mainboard? I would start by putting the original one back in.
     
  3. w.win

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    Hey!

    Thank you so much for your quick reply.

    I'm not 100% that we're fully connected correctly, but according to tutorial videos and the print install manual that came with it we're looking pretty correct.

    I've included a picture

    [​IMG]
    http://wingo.tumblr.com/post/67475393271

    As well as a link to the video of what shenanigans are going on when I plug the battery in:

    http://wingo.tumblr.com/post/67475393271
    password: dji

    In the case that you or anybody else sees something incredibly stupid I'm doing wrong.

    Thanks in advance for any and all help!
     
  4. w.win

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    Update, all ESC cables where they attach to the new board are reading at 12.32 volts (roughly) so they all seem to be working.
     
  5. OI Photography

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    Those all sound good then, but I was thinking more about the cables in to the NAZA. I'll compare your pic to what mine looks like when I pop the shell open later today.

    btw, the link you posted above for the vid is the same link for the pic ;)
     
  6. w.win

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    Thanks! Stupid copy paste on the video link! I think I found the issue though!

    I pulled up the glue which connects the X3 Cable to the new board itself. Underneath the glue, I found that the middle cable (RED) wasn't very well attached to the solder point on the board, while the brown and yellow were on there nice and tight. The red receiving point on the board was all gunked up with glue, so i pulled some of it off with pliers, and pushed the end of the red cable towards where it's supposed to land on the board (roughly) and the beeping stopped, the power up noise (doo doo doo DOOP!) happened, and then my LED started flashing constant yellow flashes (which makes sense because the TX was not on). So I think it's thinking again!

    My hope is once this is connected it should have no problem connecting to PC for the recalibration (I hope).

    Probably just shoddily done at the factory with the glue and connection point. Think it needs a resolder and some glue cleared away though that'll be tough because it's WAY smaller connection than the ESC cables.

    Is this making sense to you?

    Thanks again for sticking with me on this!
     
  7. OI Photography

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    Yep, makes perfect sense! Sounds like you were able to find the fault fairly easily, and I'm confident that should now allow you to connect to the PC as needed. I'd definitely go back and clean up the connection as best you can, or find some other way to insure it remains solid even when vibrated.

    Glad to hear you isolated the problem that fast...it's not always that easy!