Anyone using a Tracker? Recommendations?

You can start here, it's a tape measure 3 element yagi for 433 MHz. It would probably work fine at your freq, or you could scale the dimensions for 462 MHz. It was designed in Yagi-Cad, a free design tool http://www.yagicad.com/YagiCAD/YagiCAD.htm. You want to design it with maximum F-B ratio for locating purposes.
View attachment 27168

I use a 380mah iS LiPo to power the beacon; I do not have a delay programmed. I get >24 hrs of transmit time with that battery, and I don't want to have to wait 20 minutes to go after the bird if it flies off and crashes at startup. I also added a 4K Piezo buzzer that you can hear in the video for audio location when close. Radio Shack P/N 273-0074 Solder it to the beacon's LED dropping resistor.

Thanks CapnBob.

That's the one I saw. I'll give it a try when I get my transmitter.
 
You can start here, it's a tape measure 3 element yagi for 433 MHz. It would probably work fine at your freq, or you could scale the dimensions for 462 MHz. It was designed in Yagi-Cad, a free design tool http://www.yagicad.com/YagiCAD/YagiCAD.htm. You want to design it with maximum F-B ratio for locating purposes.
View attachment 27168

I use a 380mah iS LiPo to power the beacon; I do not have a delay programmed. I get >24 hrs of transmit time with that battery, and I don't want to have to wait 20 minutes to go after the bird if it flies off and crashes at startup. I also added a 4K Piezo buzzer that you can hear in the video for audio location when close. Radio Shack P/N 273-0074 Solder it to the beacon's LED dropping resistor.

Hi CapnBob

I looked at the software for trying to tune this antenna properly and I'm not sure I'm understanding all of the settings. If you're familiar with the software, any chance of running the numbers for me to get the length of tapes and distance apart for frequency 462.6625?
I may be doing something wrong because the application keeps crashing on my PC.
No big deal if you're unable, I'll build it to the specs in the instructable and give it a try.
 
Here you go. This should give you a F/B of 52 dB, which is what you want for D/F. You shouldn't need the hairpin match, as you won't be transmitting, but I included it anyway.
I use it backwards, so to speak, in that I point the rear of the antenna forward. The null will give you the least signal, and is better for direction finding, as the beamwidth is so broad. Sweep for the *weakest* signal, and that's the direction you want to go. I urge you to practice with the beacon. Take it out and put it somewhere, and then drive away until you only hear the first "High Power" tone, but not the other two. I typically get over 1/2 mile. Then get out of the vehicle, and use the Baofeng / yagi, turning around and getting a feel for the signal strength. As you get closer, you can receive the lower-power tones. When you get very close, you can even remove the antenna entirely, and use the "body-shield" technique. Hold the radio to your stomach, and slowly turn around, Where you get the weakest signal, the beacon is directly behind you. Obviously, being familiar with these techniques before you fly will give you the greatest chance of recovering your bird. I hope this helps.
3_EL_Yagi.jpg
3_EL_Yagi_1i.jpg
3_EL_Yagi_2.jpg
 
Here you go. This should give you a F/B of 52 dB, which is what you want for D/F. You shouldn't need the hairpin match, as you won't be transmitting, but I included it anyway.
I use it backwards, so to speak, in that I point the rear of the antenna forward. The null will give you the least signal, and is better for direction finding, as the beamwidth is so broad. Sweep for the *weakest* signal, and that's the direction you want to go. I urge you to practice with the beacon. Take it out and put it somewhere, and then drive away until you only hear the first "High Power" tone, but not the other two. I typically get over 1/2 mile. Then get out of the vehicle, and use the Baofeng / yagi, turning around and getting a feel for the signal strength. As you get closer, you can receive the lower-power tones. When you get very close, you can even remove the antenna entirely, and use the "body-shield" technique. Hold the radio to your stomach, and slowly turn around, Where you get the weakest signal, the beacon is directly behind you. Obviously, being familiar with these techniques before you fly will give you the greatest chance of recovering your bird. I hope this helps.
View attachment 27462 View attachment 27463 View attachment 27464

CapnBob, thank you very much. I'm going to build this tomorrow. Still waiting for the transmitter from the Netherlands

Just so I'm clear, I can mount the tapes to any type of material such as wood, rubber or plastic, it's the length and distance between each tape that matters?

The center tape is actually split into two pieces and one wire on each on side? There's no connection to the other two tapes?

Thanks again for all the input. I really appreciate it.
 
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Here you go. This should give you a F/B of 52 dB, which is what you want for D/F. You shouldn't need the hairpin match, as you won't be transmitting, but I included it anyway.
I use it backwards, so to speak, in that I point the rear of the antenna forward. The null will give you the least signal, and is better for direction finding, as the beamwidth is so broad. Sweep for the *weakest* signal, and that's the direction you want to go. I urge you to practice with the beacon. Take it out and put it somewhere, and then drive away until you only hear the first "High Power" tone, but not the other two. I typically get over 1/2 mile. Then get out of the vehicle, and use the Baofeng / yagi, turning around and getting a feel for the signal strength. As you get closer, you can receive the lower-power tones. When you get very close, you can even remove the antenna entirely, and use the "body-shield" technique. Hold the radio to your stomach, and slowly turn around, Where you get the weakest signal, the beacon is directly behind you. Obviously, being familiar with these techniques before you fly will give you the greatest chance of recovering your bird. I hope this helps.
View attachment 27462 View attachment 27463 View attachment 27464

CapnBob,

Well I got the transmitter and cable today and put together the antenna. It ain't real pretty but I think it works. I had my daughter hide the transmitter in the yard and I tried to find it. That didn't work. Too strong of a signal in every direction I pointed. I even took the antenna off the radio and tried to shield it with my body and it still was too strong to have an effect on the receiver. Not a good method for this I know, but had to try.

I tried again taking your advise on driving away. I put the transmitter in my open garage and got a mile up the road and that's when I was getting intermittent signals. Went down a farm road that put me in line of sight about a mile from my house, pulled over, opened the windows and then gave it a try. Although I couldn't see my house I knew the general direction and I could definitely tell it was working. Was able to get a strong signal pointing in the direction of my house and would lose it altogether with 45 degree sweeps. I did try the reverse position method, but I seemed to get better results looking for the stronger signal. Again not a great test. I was in a hurry and didn't even get out of the truck, so I imagine that could interfere with the signal, but it did seem accurate.

Now I only messed around with it for a half an hour but see the potential. It's also kind of fun but I hope I never have to use it. I definitely need to go out and practice. I can see this working finding the line that the device is on but to actually to find my quad if it went down, I don't know. It's big and white, that should help. I guess it'll depend on the terrain.

You mentioned you wired your Piezo buzzer to the LED dropping resistor. Is that the one next to the red LED labeled R2? I had an old Piezo buzzer left over from a Sparkfun kit but it's not loud enough. I think this is to key to finding the quad once you've isolated the area. Any suggestions on a louder buzzer. I can't seem to find the one you mentioned. Oh and, how the heck did you solder that to that tiny resistor? I'm going to need to find a smaller tip for my solder gun. Ha! I'm glad I have the magnifying glass/light.

Overall it was fun trying this out. I can't wait to see if I can get good at finding the transmitter. I'm going to put it in a little white box to make it more realistic. :)

I don't know how precise the spacing had to be but I got them within a millimeter or so.

Any other tips please pass them along.

Thanks again for all of the input.

Take care,
Sam

IMG_1997.JPG
 
Now trying to decide on buying one of those getter back water recovery devices. Not that I plan on taking a dip with it but it would be nice to have a chance of getting it back if it sinks. Saw someone else post pictures of his and thought it was an interesting idea.

ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1439860112.624461.jpg


ImageUploadedByPhantomPilots1439860133.317351.jpg
 
Ok, what would be the best type of attachment and positioning for the Marco? P3P here........

Thanks
 
Now trying to decide on buying one of those getter back water recovery devices. Not that I plan on taking a dip with it but it would be nice to have a chance of getting it back if it sinks. Saw someone else post pictures of his and thought it was an interesting idea.

View attachment 27786

View attachment 27787
Ha, this drone has all it's bases covered. A Marco Polo transmitter, gimbal guard, tape or rubber band on the end of the arms and the getterback :)
 
I live in Philadelphia and I don't even worry about that ever happening. Where are you that they're just shooting down drones?
Depending on what part of Philly you live in... you may be more concerned with not getting shot yourself.
 
I'm waiting for my P3 to arrive, and decided to "insure" my new bird. The MarcoPolo seems great, perhaps a bit pricey (and illegal to use in Sweden where I live). GPS/cell-based solutions will probably work perfect. When theres reception, when it has a GPS lock, when the thing isn't beneath the bird, when I've remembered to top up the SIM-card etc...

So I took a virtual trip to the Far East and ordered a Baofeng BF-F8+, Yagi, RP-SMA female to SMA female adapter. For the bird I got the Beacon V2 + 138mAh LiPo and a USB-Changer.

Beacon+battery are ~10g not counting shrink tubing and velcro/zipties.

Total cost: $77

Will it work? I'll let you know!





 
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It becomes clearer with practice. It's a very discreet science, listening to "fuzzy" tones getting clearer, etc. Also, you might try squelch turned off on the radio. I find that the audio/power tone differences become clearer. The static is annoying as hell, though. Always carry a map and a compass. If you get a good clear bearing, draw that bearing line on the map from your position. Move 300 yards right or left from facing toward that heading. Repeat the measurement, and draw the bearing line from that position. Where the two cross will be the ballpark location of the beacon. It can save some time.

I used a 2-wire pair wire stripped from an old IDE hard drive cable to wire the buzzer. It's tiny, and is very handy for a lot of small connections. The buzzer has to draw <10ma so as to not overload the output of the IC. You do need a tiny iron, magnification, and a steady hand to solder the wire to that resistor. You won't get much distance on the buzzer if ambient sound is loud, but anything is better than nothing.

You can buy it on ebay for $4.50 w/ free shipping. I picked up a few.
PC Board 12VDC Piezo Mini Buzzer 273 0074 by RadioShack | eBay
EBay Bzzer..gif


CapnBob,

Well I got the transmitter and cable today and put together the antenna. It ain't real pretty but I think it works. I had my daughter hide the transmitter in the yard and I tried to find it. That didn't work. Too strong of a signal in every direction I pointed. I even took the antenna off the radio and tried to shield it with my body and it still was too strong to have an effect on the receiver. Not a good method for this I know, but had to try.

I tried again taking your advise on driving away. I put the transmitter in my open garage and got a mile up the road and that's when I was getting intermittent signals. Went down a farm road that put me in line of sight about a mile from my house, pulled over, opened the windows and then gave it a try. Although I couldn't see my house I knew the general direction and I could definitely tell it was working. Was able to get a strong signal pointing in the direction of my house and would lose it altogether with 45 degree sweeps. I did try the reverse position method, but I seemed to get better results looking for the stronger signal. Again not a great test. I was in a hurry and didn't even get out of the truck, so I imagine that could interfere with the signal, but it did seem accurate.

Now I only messed around with it for a half an hour but see the potential. It's also kind of fun but I hope I never have to use it. I definitely need to go out and practice. I can see this working finding the line that the device is on but to actually to find my quad if it went down, I don't know. It's big and white, that should help. I guess it'll depend on the terrain.

You mentioned you wired your Piezo buzzer to the LED dropping resistor. Is that the one next to the red LED labeled R2? I had an old Piezo buzzer left over from a Sparkfun kit but it's not loud enough. I think this is to key to finding the quad once you've isolated the area. Any suggestions on a louder buzzer. I can't seem to find the one you mentioned. Oh and, how the heck did you solder that to that tiny resistor? I'm going to need to find a smaller tip for my solder gun. Ha! I'm glad I have the magnifying glass/light.

Overall it was fun trying this out. I can't wait to see if I can get good at finding the transmitter. I'm going to put it in a little white box to make it more realistic. :)

I don't know how precise the spacing had to be but I got them within a millimeter or so.

Any other tips please pass them along.

Thanks again for all of the input.

Take care,
Sam

View attachment 27781
 

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