Anyone spent quality time with DJI carbon reinforced props?

I've got 22 full battery flights on them. Kinda of the same story for me. I like the look of the black ones with the yellow stripes.

I have this perception that they bite the air a bit better for lift and forward pitch transitions. But I have no data to support that, so it might just be in my head.

They do sound a bit different for sure, especially when taking off at max lift. Makes me think something might be different about the shape of them. Or perhaps just the surface is different due to the different plastic compound.

Related question: On B&H Photo's site, they list the white striped props as "DJI 9450 Thrust Boosted 9" Self-Tightening Props for Phantoms" and they have a specific selection for "Not Thrust Boosted" and "Thrust Boosted". On DJI's site, they list the white striped ones as "9450 Self-tightening Propellers (Composite Hub, White with Gold Stripes)" and the black striped ones as "9450 Carbon Fiber Reinforced Self-tightening Propellers (Composite Hub, Black with Yellow Stripes)". No mention of "thrust boosted" on DJI's site.

Does anyone know if there really is such a thing as "thrust boosted" DJI props? I assumed all the 9450 props have the same 9 in length and 4.5 in pitch to them?
Both the DJI versions have the same thrust. If the motors and ESCs are the same, why would one go for higher thrust props. Speed load characteristics of the system should not be changed by one component.
 
A guy that i work with has a P3S. After a couple months he put the Fiber props on. He thinks his drone is more responsive and quieter with them on. They blades were given to him and new.
 
Well, I ordered some and will get them today. Let's hope curiosity doesn't kill the quad.
 
CF props £15 a pair
Plastic props £5 a pair.
So far I'm not reading any convincing reason to toss my money away lol.
 
Someone mentioned in another thread that if you have the original shell (like I do) that the CF blades may contribute to the hairline cracks due to the lack of the "shock absorbing" nature of the plastic ones.


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There's nothing to support that. My P3P is old motor/old shell and I fly with all kinds of props - CFR, plastic, metal and plastic hub, etc. - DJI original only tho - and it's almost 300 flights and countless hours without a single crack or prop-related problem.

The CFR ones are slightly quieter, that much is true and you can tell right away. I also noticed they tend to show up on screen less during shootings in heavy-wind, so I favor them in some occasions. I have the same "feeling" for crispness during flight that others mention, but can't really tell if that's an impression or true, and by how much.

I just like them, that's all. My take is that as long as you fly DJI props, it's OK.
 
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I have had a set of the CF props for a few months now and I have also been trying to determine if there is a noticeable difference between them.
So far this is what i have concluded;

1) The carbon fiber props seem to do well in higher speed winds. I tested this by flying the same course once with white plastic props and then again with the CF props. I find that the CF props handle better in a heavy headwind. Im not sure as to why, but my guess is the stiffness of the CF would stop the plastic from bending at all when being pushed against by the wind.

2) The carbon fiber props create more jello in the video. I found this out after orbiting around a theatre I could see the camera moving in the video, RTH and than switched to white plastic props, took off and flew back tried orbiting again.... no jello in video moving in same direction.

3) CF Props make craft feel more agile. I do agree with this, although your taking my word for it, the craft does seem slightly more responsive with the CF props VS white plastic ones.

4) CF Props are faster. I have tested this and with the wind at my tail I could hit 40 mph with white props. Switched to CF and I could hit 45mph. Not a big difference and sure it is possible there was just a bigger gust of wind when i had the Cf props on, but I'll leave that for you to determine.

5) Slightly quieter,but more vibration in the actual craft. Tested this by switching props and just letting it sit and hover. With the Cf Props there seems to be more vibration in the camera. Visible to the naked eye

I know this is anecdotal evidence at best but these are my experiences with the CF props after a few months of use

Overall, I do like the CF props and they do have their uses, but they are very expensive compared to the plastic ones. In the end to each his own. hope this was helpful
 
Maybe the jello and vibration were due to the unbalancing of the CFR props. Not sure about that but I balance all my props before use and I've found the CFR ones to come out slightly more off-balance than the white nylon ones. More unbalanced props AND higher unbalancing.

I use CFR props to shoot windy or open-water sports (windsurf, kite surf, wakeboard, etc.) and speed sports (cycling, mtnbiking...). I usually get better results overall where wind is more of a factor with CFR props, but they're all perfectly balanced and never had jello or gimbal issues.
 
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Maybe the jello and vibration were due to the unbalancing of the CFR props. Not sure about that but I balance all my props before use and I've found the CFR ones to come out slightly more off-balance than the white nylon ones. More unbalanced props AND higher unbalancing.

I use CFR props to shoot windy or open-water sports (windsurf, kite surf, wakeboard, etc.) and speed sports (cycling, mtnbiking...). I usually get better results overall where wind is more of a factor with CFR props, but they're all perfectly balanced and never had jello or gimbal issues.

That is quite possible as I have yet to purchase a prop balance. thanks for the reply, I will have to try again after balancing.
anyone have a link for a prop balance?
 
Get the DuBro dubro prop balancer | eBay IMHO the best out there, and lasts forever. I use it since forever on all my copters, planes, quads, etc. props.

BUT >>> make sure to get for the Phantom 3 balancing rod as the one that comes with it works for most other model aircrafts only. Or, do get a EJH rod for P3 http://www.amazon.com/EJH-Precision...e&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_22&smid=A1UDGHTU97IKMQ to use with the Dubro, it's slightly more precise than DuBro's rod if you're really picky. But the original is just fine too.
 
I used mine from off my p1 and they work about the same as stock ones


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Get the DuBro dubro prop balancer | eBay IMHO the best out there, and lasts forever. I use it since forever on all my copters, planes, quads, etc. props.

BUT >>> make sure to get for the Phantom 3 balancing rod as the one that comes with it works for most other model aircrafts only. Or, do get a EJH rod for P3 http://www.amazon.com/EJH-Precision...e&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_22&smid=A1UDGHTU97IKMQ to use with the Dubro, it's slightly more precise than DuBro's rod if you're really picky. But the original is just fine too.

What's your method to add/remove weight? Can you be specific about the grit, emery board, tape, etc.
 
What's your method to add/remove weight? Can you be specific about the grit, emery board, tape, etc.
Lots of different methods:

- 220 grit sandpaper on the bottom surface of the prop. Advantages: permanent, looks OK. Disadvantages: fiddly (you have to remove the prop from the balancer, scrub some plastic off, put it back on - but you only do it once), permanent.
- Tape of various sorts. Advantages: Can be removed to fiddle with. Disadvantages: Fiddly, you either have to guess the right sized piece of tape or try it several times.
- Nail polish. Advantages: Can be added without moving the prop off the balancer, removable. Disadvantages: Slowish, you have to wait for the solvent to dry to get an accurate weight. Solvent fumes (might be an advantage depending on your age and predilection for mind altering chemicals).
- Bondic (UV catalyzed glue): My personal favorite. Fast, can be done without moving the prop, can be calibrated carefully. Dries instantly after UV exposure (comes with a little tiny LED UV lamp). Stays on well enough but you can pop it off with a blade. Disadvantages: Cost (about $20 a kit but i use it for lots of other things - it's not terribly strong but it insulates well and the rapid UV catalyzing properties can be very helpful).

I'm sure there are others. One of these days when I'm bored, it's not raining and I find a very small, accurate vibration sensor I'm going to do an experiment to see if prop balancing really helps.
 
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I prefer the sandpaper method. A patch of 200 grit (average, work with what´s available) and something finer for the touch-up so it doesn´t get too rough on the surface. Yeah it´s more time-consuming but I take the chance to work on my zen side while doing it so it´s OK for me LOL.

I use other methods for other props but for the DJI ones I don´t like to add anything to the surface, not even super-thin coats of anything. The sanding doesn´t remove much material either so it basically stays the same, only balanced. But it´s OK to use tape or some epoxy as advised by WetDog, I guess it´s personal preference really.
 
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Have about 50 flights on my P3P with the carbon reinforced plastic dji official props.

Observations:

- Slightly quiter sound
- More resistant to regular wear and tear
- No appreciable (at least to me) difference on flight characteristics. Maybe she's a tiny bit more agile... But maybe it's just in my head.

For me though, it's really just that the carbon ones don't slowly wear from wind resistance like my white plastic ones do. The leading edge stays as sharp after 50 flights as it was after 1. They also do a better job of slicing up insects during the warmer months.
 
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I have found them to be top notch and well made. It flies so much better with them.


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CF props £15 a pair
Plastic props £5 a pair.
So far I'm not reading any convincing reason to toss my money away lol.

Same, pay more money for a product that will transfer more vibration to a primarily camera platform drone. Does not seem worth it, on a 250 racing drone oh yes, but phantoms are not designed for speed and agilty :)
 
Lots of different methods:

- 220 grit sandpaper on the bottom surface of the prop. Advantages: permanent, looks OK. Disadvantages: fiddly (you have to remove the prop from the balancer, scrub some plastic off, put it back on - but you only do it once), permanent.
- Tape of various sorts. Advantages: Can be removed to fiddle with. Disadvantages: Fiddly, you either have to guess the right sized piece of tape or try it several times.
- Nail polish. Advantages: Can be added without moving the prop off the balancer, removable. Disadvantages: Slowish, you have to wait for the solvent to dry to get an accurate weight. Solvent fumes (might be an advantage depending on your age and predilection for mind altering chemicals).
- Bondic (UV catalyzed glue): My personal favorite. Fast, can be done without moving the prop, can be calibrated carefully. Dries instantly after UV exposure (comes with a little tiny LED UV lamp). Stays on well enough but you can pop it off with a blade. Disadvantages: Cost (about $20 a kit but i use it for lots of other things - it's not terribly strong but it insulates well and the rapid UV catalyzing properties can be very helpful).

I'm sure there are others. One of these days when I'm bored, it's not raining and I find a very small, accurate vibration sensor I'm going to do an experiment to see if prop balancing really helps.

I have some gaffers tape. Would you put the tape on the top or bottom of the blade ideally? And will tape mess with the aerodynamics of the blade any?


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