adding Naza LED to vision +

Thats excellent, I will get one.

Where exactly is it plugged in ?
And do I need any additional cables. ?

There is a hard wired lead coming from the LED module, is that it ?
The picture shows the V1 module, is the V2 the same ?

Cant quit make out your video as it shows a multi way cable, not sure if that is relevant.
 
ElGuano said:
Update: I can confirm the Phantom 1 LED module works in the P2!

I opened up my P2 H3-3D tonight, unplugged the USB cable, and plugged in a Phantom 1 LED module. It flashes alongside the arm-mounted LEDs perfectly.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOxcfzCeybA[/youtube]

So all you guys looking to add another status LED to the P2V+, all you need is a $10 Naza-M LED V2 module and you're good to go! Note that unless you splice in the USB port, that will move to the LED module as well.

For me, this is great because it means there's a standard and easy avenue to add addressable Neopixels to the P2-series as well, even more easily than on a P1 in fact!

Figured it out, I can splice a V2 LED into the LED plug on the Naza V2. This is great news.
 
Be nice if they sold a y cable. Can - bus hub is 59.00 forget that. I looked and couldn't find a y cable.
 
Mori55 said:
Be nice if they sold a y cable. Can - bus hub is 59.00 forget that. I looked and couldn't find a y cable.

I am sure if you can locate the connectors you can make your own. I believe the cable from the Naza to the esc led can be found somewhere online. I will take a look tonight.
 
V2 led should be the same.

My led has a y just because it is a test rig. Not needed to function.

You can't use a y-splitter on 2 led modules because it has two USB IDs and they interfere with each other. However I've heard the p2 USB port without the led is just a dumb wire so you may be able to split it out with a y.

The LED module with USB is not CANbus, so you shouldn't be looking for a can hub or wire up a cable for CAN. You so need to wire all four pins (5v, gnd, data-hi, data-low) for it to work.
 
ElGuano said:
V2 led should be the same.

My led has a y just because it is a test rig. Not needed to function.

You can't use a y-splitter on 2 led modules because it has two USB IDs and they interfere with each other. However I've heard the p2 USB port without the led is just a dumb wire so you may be able to split it out with a y.

The LED module with USB is not CANbus, so you shouldn't be looking for a can hub or wire up a cable for CAN. You so need to wire all four pins (5v, gnd, data-hi, data-low) for it to work.

Know where we can get the connectors? Both male and female usb connectors? I am thinking of trying to make a Y splitter which will do the exact same thing as splicing. Male connector to Naza wired to two female connectors (one I plug in the esc led and the other for the Naza V2 LED) I don't want to hack up my original connector if I don't have too.
 
quality control said:
ElGuano said:
V2 led should be the same.

My led has a y just because it is a test rig. Not needed to function.

You can't use a y-splitter on 2 led modules because it has two USB IDs and they interfere with each other. However I've heard the p2 USB port without the led is just a dumb wire so you may be able to split it out with a y.

The LED module with USB is not CANbus, so you shouldn't be looking for a can hub or wire up a cable for CAN. You so need to wire all four pins (5v, gnd, data-hi, data-low) for it to work.

Know where we can get the connectors? Both male and female usb connectors? I am thinking of trying to make a Y splitter which will do the exact same thing as splicing. Male connector to Naza wired to two female connectors (one I plug in the esc led and the other for the Naza V2 LED) I don't want to hack up my original connector if I don't have too.

You can get standard 1x4 servo housings from hansenhobbies.com.
http://hansenhobbies.com/products/conne ... pt1in_1x4/

They don't have female housings for 1x4s, but what I do is crimp male terminals onto the wires and they just plug together:
http://hansenhobbies.com/products/conne ... /pt1in_mt/

You can heat shrink them together to secure the connection if you want.
 
5-pin won't fit in the Naza but if you get premise 4-pins you can save yourself some crimping (though it ends up costing more if you buy premade every time you need a connector).
 
ElGuano said:
5-pin won't fit in the Naza but if you get premise 4-pins you can save yourself some crimping (though it ends up costing more if you buy premade every time you need a connector).

They are very easy to crimp and solder (I use needle nose to crimp and always solder for the best connection) insertion and extraction is not hard either.

Best bet is to follow ElGuano's links and buy a bunch. That way you can make a bunch and distribute amongst friends! :D
 
ElGuano said:
5-pin won't fit in the Naza but if you get premise 4-pins you can save yourself some crimping (though it ends up costing more if you buy premade every time you need a connector).

I knew I had seen them before :D

http://www.frontx.com/pro/c206_018.html
 

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Also, note that the locking latch connector will not fit the Naza slot either, you'll have to shear off the latch ;). The two-tabbed keying at the bottom should fit though.
 
I got the module.

Just need to sort out how to do cable.

Not sure on the one above as you will still need to do a 1 to 2 split on each of the pins.
 

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