Adding FPV to P2

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I've got just about everything ordered to upgrade to FPV on my stock P2 with the H4-3D gimbal with the exception of the monitor. Then, I had a thought/question. One of the components I'm adding is the iOSD mini and I didn't know if after it's all complete will I be able to take pictures with my GoPro or just still be able to shoot video?

The is what I'm adding....
--> Immersion RC 5.8ghz Transmitter
--> DJI iOSD mini
--> Plug and Play cable - DJI Phantom 2 to iOSD mini and Fat Shark/Immersive RC Transmitter product code 4201047
--> Rave DJI Monitor mount
 
I've got just about everything ordered to upgrade to FPV on my stock P2 with the H4-3D gimbal with the exception of the monitor. Then, I had a thought/question. One of the components I'm adding is the iOSD mini and I didn't know if after it's all complete will I be able to take pictures with my GoPro or just still be able to shoot video?

The is what I'm adding....
--> Immersion RC 5.8ghz Transmitter
--> DJI iOSD mini
--> Plug and Play cable - DJI Phantom 2 to iOSD mini and Fat Shark/Immersive RC Transmitter product code 4201047
--> Rave DJI Monitor mount

You would have to set the GoPro before hand if you want to take photos and video, just photos or just video. Once you decide which you want to do then you start the camera before powering up the P2 and takeoff.

If you want to use the GoPro's wifi to setup the functions that you want with you smart phone and GoPro app you can but shut the wifi off before starting the P2. So if your thinking of using GoPro's wifi and your phone forget it as wifi uses the same frequency as the P2 and will interfere and cause lose of control. So get a monitor.
 
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What you can also do is just shoot video and you can grab freeze frame shots from your video
 
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You would have to set the GoPro before hand if you want to take photos and video, just photos or just video. Once you decide which you want to do then you start the camera before powering up the P2 and takeoff.

If you want to use the GoPro's wifi to setup the functions that you want with you smart phone and GoPro app you can but shut the wifi off before starting the P2. So if your thinking of using GoPro's wifi and your phone forget it as wifi uses the same frequency as the P2 and will interfere and cause lose of control. So get a monitor.

This is exactly what I do. I use the WiFi on the GoPro before flight t set the GoPro for what I want. Usually it's the "Photo+Video" mode, takes a shot every 5 seconds with 1080p/30 video. then I turn off the GoPro WiFi and start recording before I take off.
 
This is exactly what I do. I use the WiFi on the GoPro before flight t set the GoPro for what I want. Usually it's the "Photo+Video" mode, takes a shot every 5 seconds with 1080p/30 video. then I turn off the GoPro WiFi and start recording before I take off.

I am able to do the same that is after bought a new phone. I have a new piece of photographic equipment that requires bluetooth to set it up and at the same time I setup two of GoPro's. Myself I'm strictly into video as there's no money photos and has been in years at least not through any agencies.
 
What you can also do is just shoot video and you can grab freeze frame shots from your video

Depending on which GoPro you have you would get better freeze frames either 4K or 2K then from any other resolution as there's more information available at the higher resolutions.
 
A good balance when you are first learning things is to set the camera to shoot video and capture photos at the same time. The trade off is you don't have much control over image resolution in that mode. The upside it that you get both.

One thing to note is that when the camera is capturing photos only, you will not get any video feed via the iOSD so you are flying blind when you chose that option. Sometimes that is the still the best choice if you are wanting the highest quality stills you can get, just know that you're not gonna have any live video when shooting that way.

Note also that freeze frames from video is not the same as shooting straight photos. The best thing to do is try all options out and find out what works best for you. Happy flying and shooting!

:)
 
Nor are photos from a video + photo sequence. A photo from Hero 4 Black 4000 x 3000 whereas video + photo as a screen resolution of 3840 x 2160. That screen resolution would even be less when shooting video + photo with hero 3+ black. The resolution as a whole is low no matter whether you shoot just photo or video + photo because there both taken as jpegs and highly compressed.
 
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On the GOpro, enable OSD (on screen display). Your FPV display device will now have a FAT video icon on the top left hand corner and display other information like recording time, recording resolution and frame rates. The moment that icon is red, I know the gopro is recording. Nothing worse then getting perfect footage and forgetting to hit that **** button.

On a side note, I have a gopro 3+ BE. I set to record 1080p@30fps with stills at every 5 secs. I find that the stills are clearer and has more resolution then the video. This setting however disables the 1080p@60fps which I think is the sweet spot for aerials footage.
 
On the GOpro, enable OSD (on screen display). Your FPV display device will now have a FAT video icon on the top left hand corner and display other information like recording time, recording resolution and frame rates. The moment that icon is red, I know the gopro is recording. Nothing worse then getting perfect footage and forgetting to hit that **** button.

On a side note, I have a gopro 3+ BE. I set to record 1080p@30fps with stills at every 5 secs. I find that the stills are clearer and has more resolution then the video. This setting however disables the 1080p@60fps which I think is the sweet spot for aerials footage.

I shut the OSD off on GoPro as it see that display is very distracting.

I did that test about an hour ago Video + Photo at 4K and both were 3840x2160 and photo was jpeg. Being that the photo is a jpeg and it's highly compressed there isn't allot of information left to make any adjustment to it post not like you would have with a raw photo. Being that the photo and video had the resolution of 3840x2160 I think you could get decent freeze frame from the video. Myself I could care less because in today's marketplace (photo agencies) there a real money in photo as there is in video whether its SD, HD or Ultra HD.
 
I shut the OSD off on GoPro as it see that display is very distracting.

I did that test about an hour ago Video + Photo at 4K and both were 3840x2160 and photo was jpeg. Being that the photo is a jpeg and it's highly compressed there isn't allot of information left to make any adjustment to it post not like you would have with a raw photo. Being that the photo and video had the resolution of 3840x2160 I think you could get decent freeze frame from the video. Myself I could care less because in today's marketplace (photo agencies) there a real money in photo as there is in video whether its SD, HD or Ultra HD.

From what I remember, isn't the photo resolution 12MP? It's not THAT bad, but yea, I've seen better. I get a better shot that way than taking a still from the video. And also, being that I am a photographer, I use Lightroom, and when I import the shot I can apply a GoPro lens correction that takes out just about all of the fisheye.
 
From what I remember, isn't the photo resolution 12MP? It's not THAT bad, but yea, I've seen better. I get a better shot that way than taking a still from the video. And also, being that I am a photographer, I use Lightroom, and when I import the shot I can apply a GoPro lens correction that takes out just about all of the fisheye.

Doesn't make the photo any if it's 12mp or 24mp you are still working with highly compress jpeg photo Being a photographer surely you know the difference between raw and jpeg. I don't waste my time with photos except when I'm doing time lapse sequences.simply because there's good money in it.

Don't get me wrong about there not being money in photos if you have you're own studio and sell direct. Then you have to market, advertise, and licence and that cost money, time and risk and you better be **** good.

Speaking of GoPro studio and fisheye. If I use hero 3+ silver which the stock and using a wide angle (fisheye) I do not use GP studio to remove it as it stretches the photo to much horizontally instead I'll After Effects to do that because I can control it.
 
Oh, I know how bad JPEG's can get, that's why I shoot RAW 99.9% of the time... that's why I have about 5TB of pictures from the past 4 years... lol...

But if it's all I have to work with it, I'll make it work. It won't be a million dollar shot, but hey, what are ya gonna do....After Effects should handle the fisheye quite well. I don't think I've ever used GoPro Studio... lol.. I'm lucky that my work has a full Adobe Creative Suite license, so I use (well, barely use... lol...) Premiere.
 
Oh, I know how bad JPEG's can get, that's why I shoot RAW 99.9% of the time... that's why I have about 5TB of pictures from the past 4 years... lol...

But if it's all I have to work with it, I'll make it work. It won't be a million dollar shot, but hey, what are ya gonna do....After Effects should handle the fisheye quite well. I don't think I've ever used GoPro Studio... lol.. I'm lucky that my work has a full Adobe Creative Suite license, so I use (well, barely use... lol...) Premiere.

You know you can get Adobe CC for lot less per month since you.re a school employee and have it all at home.
 
Back to the subject at hand I just ordered a 7" Black Pearl monitor for $149. The last compenent I need for the project. Now I just need some weather above freezing to play with it.
 

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