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2 Pin Connector Help

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Bunger, Jan 18, 2014.

  1. Bunger

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    These are pictures of a 2 pin connector that plugs into my G3 gimbal. I have it soldered and heat shrinked my Phantom's ( v1.1.1 ) aux power.

    I would like to add FPV and don't really want to re-do the aux power splice job; instead, I would thinking about either buying or making a splitter from this power connector: one end would plug into the connector shown and the other two ends would plug into my gimbal and the vtx ( would be a Boscam ts351.

    The problem is that I am not entirely sure what kind of connector this is or where I might find additional one. Is it a "standard" 2-pin JST?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. chopperflyer

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    try a servo lead, adjust pins to suit.
     
  3. ElGuano

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    You can by a y-block splitter, it looks like a standard 0.100" 2-pin servo connector (LP, or latching polarized).
     
  4. Bunger

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    I just did a search and am not finding much with this description....
     
  5. Bunger

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  6. ElGuano

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    It's pretty easy to splice wires together from existing servo leads, but if you need new/clean leads, you may need a crimper for those 0.1" male/female pins. Good luck!
     
  7. OI Photography

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    I have that on my need-to-buy list...any recommendations?
     
  8. ElGuano

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    Yes! I have the one Hansen Hobbies sells as a "deluxe" crimper. It's the best I've used, and I know it's expensive but I highly recommend it. Once you use the ratcheting feature, you won't want to deal with the hassle of anything else: http://hansenhobbies.com/products/conne ... /crimp_dx/

    Don't get anything that looks like the "economy" crimper they sell. It works, but the pins and wires are small and you often need three hands to hold things steady--the deluxe crimper's ratchet does that for you, the economy ones don't have that feature. Plus, if you're making more than a few dozen crimps at a time, the economy ones just hurt your hand. The deluxe ones are levered for mechanical advantage and automatically release at the correct clamping force so you don't underclamp (which causes wires to come out).

    I haven't tried this one, but it looks like the "chinese counterfeit" of the Hansen one. Maybe it's just as good, maybe not? It's definitely cheaper.
    http://www.servocity.com/html/pin_crimpers.html
     
  9. OI Photography

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    Just what I needed, thank you! I'll get the ones Hansen is selling...I hadn't even thought to look for a ratcheting model.
     
  10. Bunger

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    So I now have all of my pieces - male and female latching polarized connectors, pins, wire, and deluxe crimping tool. I have crimped the wire tot he pins, but can't find anything on how to keep the pins secured in the housings - the housings don't seem to have any clips or catch the pins?! These are what I have:

    http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/c ... onnectors/

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  11. ElGuano

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    The plastic servo connector block either has tab cutouts, or small pin-holes. The crimped side of the servo pins line up with the cutouts/pin-holes when the wire is inserted into the block, and should snap locked when pushed in far enough.
     
  12. Bunger

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    It does appear to have small pin holes, but the pins never snap lock into place...
     
  13. ElGuano

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    With standard 0.1" servo terms, they will, if the open crimp end is facing the hole, and you push the wire in far enough.

    [​IMG]

    If you crimped it too far forward you may have pushed the latching tab flush with the terminal. You can lift it back up with a hobby knife.
     
  14. Bunger

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    I'm pretty sure that's exactly ehat I did - crimped too far forward. Thanks a ton for the pics...that really helped!!!