Recent content by nickj

I'm currently running a white P4P, with Obsidian props - good combo :)

I crashed into a tree once, but despite sounding like a weed whacker as it chopped through the branches, my P4P didn't crash! I didn't even land it after, we kept shooting lol

If you’re using Premiere Pro CC, the best way to work with H265 is to setup your project using the proxy function in PP CC, it’ll automatically create proxies to easily cut with because you’ll find h265 typically performs poorly on most computers.

My P4P has a made a clicking noise during start-up when the camera tilts straight down since buying it in December. It has generally performed great, no sign of mechanical failure or improper functionality.

You are correct, hopefully the installer releases soon. It's among the easiest-to-use converters for h.265>422 that I've used, and it does batches.

My partner Autumn and I produced this small video to inform visitors about a protected coral reef on the Big Island. We bought a P4P just for this essentially, pretty happy with how it performed throughout. I used PolarPro filters as well, enjoy.

Yes, that is what I'm saying, but to make it more clear think of "None" as literally no style applied to the preview image so you can see a direct-from-the-sensor representation (again 0/0/0). Even though None is in the "Style" menu, it is essentially the "turn off styles" option rather than a...

The reason it's recommended to view in "None 0/0/0" to shoot RAW with the P4P is because it is essentially turning off any "look" or picture style, so you're previewing the unprocessed image that will be shown in your photo-processing software of choice. Unfortunately the embedded profile in RAW...

For video and jpegs, yes D-Cinelike (-1/-3/-2) is just about the best setting for post-production. BUT, for raw stills you'll want to shoot None 0/0/0 because that's going to represent your starting image when you bring it into photoshop, lightroom or whatever you use.

As others have said, stay away from D-Log, and while shooting in D-Cinelike try -1/-3/-2 for your settings - think of it as a less-aggressive "log" profile. Has worked well for me in many instances.

That gimbal-roll short cut is great! It really seemed like a no-brainer to have a quick adjustment like that, glad to see it was there all along. One thing I would contest that you mention in the video - that lower ISO is ideal with all cameras - That's not necessarily true. With Red for...

That's certainly an option, but at that point I would just shoot manually and make the shutter adjustment myself to dial in the exposure, quick and easy to do on the fly with the P4P controller layout :)

Color-fringing or "chromatic aberration" occurs past about f/5.6 using the P4P. It's essentially a lens flaw, and something that can occur using virtually any lens in a given range of aperture, sometimes compounded by conditions. What those terms refer to specifically is a lens' inability to...

Switch all settings to "manual", that means: aperture, shutter speed, ISO and color temperature are all up to you. If you plan to shoot RAW stills, set the picture style to "NONE - 0/0/0" in order to have a preview image that reflects the image you will be starting with in photoshop, lightroom...

I haven't tried the new dlog, and based on my results with d-cinelike (-1/-3/-2), not really feeling the need to. I'm finding decent protection for highlights & shadows with this setting, followed by only moderate adjustments in color-grading for fear of having to push the footage too far and...